SKAGIT ALPINISM

Chalten 2014-2015

April 16th, 2015

2014-2015 Chalten Season Because this blog post is so long, I’ve broken it up into chapters: 1) Introduction 2) Torre de la Medialuna and Rescues 3) Tomahawk and Aguja Cuatro Dedos 4) Piergiorgio Attempt 5) La Travesía del Oso Buda 6) Cerro Torre Southeast Ridge Attempt 7) Directa de la Mentira 8) Torre Egger Daytrip 9) Torre Traverse Daytrip Attempt 9) Torrisimo   1) Introduction I’m far behind on updating my blog. Contrary to the […]

Colin starting up the third pitch of Venas Azules.

Colfax Peak and the Heart of Darkness

April 7th, 2015

I’m breaking with chronological order for once – publishing these reports from winter climbing in the Cascades while I still finish writing up a juggernaut of a blog post about my Patagonia season. Colfax Peak Upon getting home from Patagonia on March 1st, I spent a few days jetlagged in Seattle, dealing with the various life chores that accumulate when you’ve left the continent for four months. Normally skiing would’ve been my top priority, since missing […]

John Scurlock's beautiful photo of the northeast side of Slesse. I don't think it's necessary to draw in the route line!

Hunger Games at Cerro San Lorenzo

December 10th, 2014

After years of climbing exclusively in the Chalten Massif, I have finally exposed myself to another location in the Patagonian Andes. I spent most of November underneath Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak, with my longtime friend Rob Smith. While El Chalten becomes a bit more like Chamonix every year, the rest of the Patagonian Andes maintain a similar climbing experience as twenty years ago, except that now one can get weather information via satellite […]

Aguja Antipasto on the left, showing the line of "Romance Explosion," with the big, unclimbed tower on the right.

Minivan Alpinism in Canada

October 21st, 2014

Despite my best intentions to dedicate myself to becoming a better rock climber, I somehow keep getting distracted by the call of high mountains… This past summer I tried to rock climb in Squamish a fair amount, but found myself returning a few times to the interior ranges of BC – The Canadian Rockies and the Columbia Mountains. For a North American alpine climber, the Canadian Rockies are a great resource, and I think the […]

Colin climbing one last bit of mixed chimney on the northwest face. Photo by Ian Welsted.

Mt. Sir Donald

June 27th, 2014

In July 2012 my friend Dylan Johnson and I made an 11-day road-trip through interior BC, and although we climbed several fun things, the highlight for me was the Northwest Arête of Mt. Sir Donald. Although I had driven through Rogers Pass many times, I had never climbed there previously, and I knew so little about the area that we found route information only from Google searches the afternoon beforehand. The Northwest Arête is technically […]

The line of "Sashimi Don." The left-hand ridge is the Northeast Buttress, the right-hand ridge is the Northwest Arête, and the original Beckey-Chouinard north face route is in between Sashimi Don and the Northwest Arête. This awesome photo of Sir Donald's north face was taken several years ago by Felix Parham.