Cerro Pier Giorgio, First Complete Ascent

January 31st, 2014

Last week the weather forecast showed one of the most promising windows of the 2013-2014 Chalten climbing season (which doesn’t say much this year), and Rolo and I hiked into Niponino on the 22nd with ambitious plans. When we went to sleep it was snowing heavily, but we felt confident it would stop soon. When are alarm went off at 2:30am it was still snowing heavily, and we reset the alarm for 4:00. At 4:00 […]

Rolo descending the upper east face at last light, with Cerro Chalten behind.

Cerro Madsen, Aguja de l’S and Cerro Domo Blanco

January 15th, 2014

The 2013-2014 season in El Chalten continues to be a cold and stormy one. Since my arrival in mid November there hasn’t been a single weather window that I would call “a good one,” and the gnarliest summits, Cerro Torre and Torre Egger, have both yet to see a single ascent this season. However, at least small, mediocre windows have been relatively frequent for those motivated to climb smaller objectives in icy conditions. On New […]

Colin climbing an awkward, icy flare near the summit of Aguja de l'S. I think we went the wrong way... Photo by Sarah Hart.

Cerro Marconi Central – La SuperWhillans

December 22nd, 2013

Another semi-good weather window arrived in the Chalten Massif this past week. The forecast showed decent weather for the 18th and 19th, so Rolo and I hiked into the mountains on the 17th. This season continues so far to be the “Old Patagonia,” with plenty of wind, plenty of precip, and not-so-warm temperatures (which, in some ways is a refreshing change from the past couple summers of “Patagonia Tropical”). The recent snow and rime accumulations, […]

The east face of Cerro Marconi Central, showing the line of "La SuperWhillans."

Techado Negro and Aguja Volonqui

December 8th, 2013

The last couple weeks in El Chalten the weather has been neither particularly good nor bad. There hasn’t been a lot of truly burly storms, but there haven’t been any periods of weather forecast good enough to feel confident about trying big, hard routes. There have been a handful of decent days, however, and Sarah and I used a couple of them to tag summits that we’ve never been to before. On November 30th we […]

The east side of Aguja Volonqui, viewed from near the top of Domo Blanco. The ComesaƱa-Fonrouge is marked with red dots, and "El Lobito" in green dots.

Farewell Magnus

December 2nd, 2013

Shortly before leaving Seattle for Patagonia, it happened again – a phone call during the middle of the night brought news of another friend who had died in the mountains. While ski mountaineering with Andreas Fransson on New Zealand’s Mt. Cook, Swedish evil-genius/warm-hearted-mad-man, Magnus Kastengren had fallen from a high ridge to his death. I hadn’t done nearly as much climbing and skiing with Magnus as others, and there are many people who were much […]