Devil’s Thumb, The Diablo Traverse

August 18th, 2010

Mikey Schaefer ( and I have just come back to Seattle from a quick, fantastic trip to the Stikine Icecap region, on the BC-Alaska border, near Petersburg, Alaska. I have been planning to visit Devil’s Thumb for years, but until now never made it to this beautiful mountain range. Our objective was a complete traverse of the Devil’s Thumb massif, climbing over the summits of the Witches Tits, Cat’s Ears Spires, and finally Devil’s Thumb […]

The west-to-east line of The Diablo Traverse.

Tahoma Ski Descent and North Rib of Slesse

August 2nd, 2010

After Alaska I had to nurse my frostbitten toes for a couple weeks before climbing on them. Since then I have been mostly just rock climbing, at Index, Squamish and Skaha, but have made it up into the alpine a couple times – for a ski descent of Tahoma’s (aka Mt. Rainier) Edmunds Headwall, and a climb of the North Rib of Slesse. I hiked in to the northwest side of Tahoma on Bastille Day, […]

I spent last weekend at Mt. Slesse, one of North America's greatest peaks. Nick Elson and I climbed the Complete North Rib, a Jeff Lowe route to the right of the popular Northeast Buttress. Slesse in the morning light, with the complete North Rib marked.