SKAGIT ALPINISM

David Lama and Cerro Torre – Good news

January 30th, 2011

A couple days ago, on January 28th, David Lama posted on his blog that he will not rappel-bolt on Cerro Torre. It is written in German, but Doerte Pietron made a quick translation for me. The third paragraph, where he refers about his planned tactics, roughly reads: “Unfortunately I couldn’t take a look at the headwall yet, and therefore couldn’t get any info about the rock, crack systems, possibilities to free climb… I hope we […]

IMG_0239

Clarifications about Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull

January 27th, 2011

After making my earlier blog post, most all of the climbers in El Chalten headed into the mountains in pursuit of a forecasted weather window. The weather window turned out worse than was forecasted, which was a relief for me because I’ve got a bit of a cold and wouldn’t have been able to climb anything big anyways. Team Redbull climbed a short ways above the Col of Patience on the Compressor Route, and seemed […]

IMG_0239

Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull

January 22nd, 2011

In 1959, Cesare Maestri attempted to climb Cerro Torre via it’s North Face. At some point during the climb, descent, or descent of the glacier below the face, Maestri’s climbing partner, Toni Egger, perished. Maestri claimed that they had made the first ascent of Cerro Torre, and the third member of the expedition, Cesarino Fava, either believed Maestri or agreed to lie in agreement with Maestri. Over time, more and more doubts began to surface […]

IMG_0239

Jardines Japoneses

January 6th, 2011

The last several weeks delivered mostly all bad weather to the Chalten region. On one of a few slightly better days, Tommy Caldwell and I headed out to climb the Brenner Ridge on Aguja Guillaumet. Guillaumet is one of the smallest, most accessible of the spires here, but nonetheless it was fun to get out climbing in the mountains. During the last week, however, there has been a bunch of dry weather. During the first […]

Tommy leading an excellent hands-to-fists pitch on the Brenner Ridge.