SKAGIT ALPINISM

Farewell Bjørn-Eivind

February 19th, 2012

A week and a half ago I woke up to see a missed call from a Norwegian telephone number that I didn’t recognize. Somehow I felt that there had been an accident. I went to my computer, and sure enough, my friend Nils Nielsen had sent me an e-mail when I hadn’t answered my phone: Stein-Ivar Gravdal and my good friend Bjørn-Eivind Årtun had been killed while climbing on Kjerag (the same cliff where they […]

Bjorn-Eivind-Artun

The Removal of Cesare Maestri’s Bolt Ladders on Cerro Torre

February 4th, 2012

A couple weeks ago, climbers Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk completed the first “fair means” ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, and on their descent successfully removed a large portion of the bolt ladders installed there in 1971 by Cesare Maestri. This has sparked a large debate within the global climbing community, as to whether it was a wise action, and if Kennedy and Kruk had the right to make it. I would […]

Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt from the Torre Glacier, with Exocet marked on Standhardt