The Corkscrew

January 31st, 2013

After Sarah and I had rested from Fitz Roy, we unfortunately squandered several more days of good weather. However, this weather window turned out to be longest I have ever seen here in El Chalten, and I had yet another chance to go climbing. Sarah headed to Bariloche to start an intensive Spanish language course, and I teamed up with fellow Seattle climber, Chad Kellogg, for another crack at Cerro Torre. Chad had just made […]

Chad traversing across the hanging icefield on the upper south face

Mate, Porro, y Todo con mi Dama

January 17th, 2013

My girlfriend, Sarah Hart, is joining me for some of this season in Chalten, and arrived on the same day that Jon took off. We had a week of bouldering in relatively stormy weather, and then yet another weather window descended upon Chalten – this time an extended one. Although Sarah’s only two previous ascents in the Chalten massif were Aguja Innominata and Cerro Solo, we decided that we had to try to profit from […]

Sarah coming up slushy ice near the top of Fitz Roy


January 3rd, 2013

For Jon’s last window this season in Patagonia, we hiked back up to Niponino on the last day of 2012, both with lingering colds. On the first day of 2013 we left Niponino early and headed to the Standhardt Col to try “Festerville,” the north ridge of Cerro Standhardt, first climbed by Timmy O’Neil and Nathan Martin. After a lot of climbing in crampons over the past few weeks, it was nice to switch to […]

Jon on the fifth pitch, which, despite not being particularly difficult, I thought was the best pitch on the route