SKAGIT ALPINISM

Random climbing history: Prusik Peak and Cerro Chaltén (AKA Fitz Roy)

May 18th, 2015

Recently, while skimming through Fred Beckey’s classic book, “Challenge of the North Cascades,” I was surprised to see the name Guido Magnone. When I first read Beckey’s book, nearly twenty years ago, I surely thought nothing of Magnone’s name, but this time I recognized it immediately. It made me quite curious, I pestered Fred a bit, and with some help from Megan Bond Pauli, learned some local climbing history that I thought was pretty fascinating: […]

The south face of Prusik Peak. Photo by Mark Bunker, the day before we made a winter ascent of the West Ridge. I had just returned from my first trip to Patagonia, in Jan. 2004.

Earthquake in the Langtang Valley

May 14th, 2015

I got on a plane in Vancouver around midday on April 16. I was exhausted. After a four-month season in Patagonia, my six weeks back in North America turned out much less restful than I had imagined. Conditions had been excellent, and I couldn’t keep myself from going out in the mountains a bunch. The downside to my most successful ever season in Patagonia is that I was swamped with requests for photos, requests for […]

Destruction.